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    文刀米:用百年争取的女性穿衣自由不是为了让恶人脱掉

    文章出处:http://wh8848.com/ 作者:北京启航人服装有限公司人气:2251 发表时间:2018-8-3 11:15:01

    文刀米:用百年争取的女性穿衣自由不是为了让恶人脱掉

    ZHIKANSHISHANGBIAOMIANDEPIAOLIANGHECHAOLIU,ZIRANFUQIAN,DANQUKANSHISHANGSHIDEFAZHANLICHENG,YOUHECHANGBUSHIBIAODACHUQUANQIUNVXINGDUIHUOQUPINGDENGSHEHUIQUANLIDEKANGZHENG,DANGRAN,ZAIZHEIGEGUOCHENGZHONG,XUDUOYOUXIUERSHANLIANGDENANSHIGONGXIANLEJIDADELILIANG。


    北京启航人服装有限公司专业定制西服、校服、酒店工服、物业工服。咨询热线(同微信):13810160190

    ZHEIZHOUFEICHANGMEIYOUXIEGAODEDONGLI,JILESSXIEDEGAOZISHIZAOQIANZHUNBEIDE,MUXIAYUCUIMIANYESHILINGSUIZHUNBEILEYIGEYUE。MEITIANSHUADAODESHEHUIXINWENSHIZAITAIEXINREN,YOUSHIHOUXIANGXIANG,WODUOZAIYISHUHESHISHANGLI,SHIBUSHIQINGSONGHENDUO。

    BU,ZHEISHIYANERDAOLING。

    ZHIKANSHISHANGBIAOMIANDEPIAOLIANGHECHAOLIU,ZIRANFUQIAN,DANQUKANSHISHANGSHIDEFAZHANLICHENG,YOUHECHANGBUSHIBIAODACHUQUANQIUNVXINGDUIHUOQUPINGDENGSHEHUIQUANLIDEKANGZHENG,DANGRAN,ZAIZHEIGEGUOCHENGZHONG,XUDUOYOUXIUERSHANLIANGDENANSHIGONGXIANLEJIDADELILIANG。

    WOMENBUYONGHUIGUTAIJIUYUANDEWEILAI。

    CONG19SHIJI50NIANDAIKAISHI,XIANGDUIFUYUDEOUZHOU,RANGBUTONGJIECENGDENVRENMENDEYICHUANZHEKUANDAQUNBAIDEQUNZHUANG,CONGCENGCENGDIEDIEDECHENQUN,DAOHOULAIGAICHENGYONGQUNGULAICHENGQIXIANGYIGEDENGZHAODEQUNBAI。

    1860NIAN

    LUTUISHIBUBEIYUNXUDE,YINCINVRENMENHAICHANGCHANGZAIDAQUNZIXIAMIANCHUANYITIAOZHANGKU。

    FANSUOZHIJI。

    MONAI1886NIANDEHUAZUO,ZHANXIANLEDANGSHIDEDAQUNZI

    SUIRANDAQUNZIXINGDONGBUBIAN,DANZHEIBINGBUSHIDUINVRENZUIDADEZHEMO,ZHENZHENGKONGBUDESHIJINSHENXIONGYI。ZAIOUZHOU,JINSHENXIONGYIDELISHIJIUYUAN,ZAOZAI16SHIJIJIUCHUXIANGUOTIEZHIDE。

    19SHIJI70NIANDAI,JINSHENXIONGYIYOUYICICHENGWEILIUXING。XIDAOJIXINGDEYAOPEIHETUNBUGAOGAOLONGQIDEQUNCHENG,HUAJIERQUEFAMEIGAN。

    19SHIJI80NIANDAIZUOYOUDEZHAOPIAN

    DANGSHIDEGUIZUNVXING,WULUNDUOMEFUYOU,DUOMESHANYUJIAOJI,DOUMIANBULESHUYAODETONGKU。BEIRENWEISHIDANGSHIYINGGELANZUIMEINVRENDEDaisyGONGZHU,YAOTONGYANGXIDAOJIXING。

    PAISHEYU1901NIAN

    ZAI20SHIJICHU,CENGYOURENCAIYONGGUOZAOQIDEXGUANGPAISHEXIYAODENVREN。

    1908NIAN

    NANDAOMEIYOURENJINXINGGUOKANGZHENGMA?

    YOU。

    ZUIZHUMINGDEYINGGAISHIAmelia BloomerNVSHI,TASHIMEIGUONVQUANYUNDONGDECHANGDAOZHE,TAXIWANGJIOUZHOUNVXINGDAIQUGENGWEIKUANSONGDEYIFU,YIJILEISIDENGLONGKUDEZHANGKU,ZHEIYANGBIANYUNVXINGJINXINGGEZHONGHUODONG。

    Amelia BloomerTICHANGDEFUZHUANG

    RANER,OUZHOUDEQUANGUIBINGBUXIANGYINGZHEIYANGDEHAOZHAO,FANSUODE、LEJINDEFUSHIYIJIUZAIJINGUNVRENDESHENGHUO。

    DAGAI50NIANHOU,ZHUJIANJUEQIDENVXINGSIXIANG,YUELAIYUEKEWANGXIANGNANRENYIYANGJINRUSHEHUIDENVRENMEN,CAIKAISHIZHUJIANCHUANSHANGDENGLONGKU,QISHANGZIXINGCHE。

    SUIRANTAMENYIJIUXIYAO,DANSHI,BUZIYIDANMAIKAI,JIUSHOUBUHUIQULE。

    19SHIJIMO,CHUXIANLEDIYIWEIHUABAONVLANG(pin up girl)Fernande Barrey ,TASHENCAIFENGRUN,CHUANZHEJIQIXINGGANDEYIWU,CHUXIANZAIHAIBAOSHANG。

    SHEYINGJean Agelou, 1910NIAN

    ZHEIJIANSHIQINGCONGSHEHUIDEFAZHANLAIKAN,FUZAYOUMAODUN,YIFANGMIAN,TAHENDIANFU,PAOTOULUMIANRUCIDEGONGZHONGHUA,SHINVXINGSHEHUIDIWEITISHENGDEYIZHONGBIAOXIAN;DANLINGYIFANGMIAN,TAMENDEZHAOPIANYIXINGGANWEIZHU,YONGYUMANZUBUFENRENDEXINGHUANXIANG,GONGRENYULE。

    JUSHUOHENDUOTADEQUANLUOZHAO,ZAIYIZHANQIJIANBEISHUANGFANGSHIBINGZHENZANG。

    SHEYINGJean Agelou

    XIANGXIANG,SHIZHIJINRI,TAMENBUYEHAICUNZAIZHEMA?

    20SHIJIDAOLAIQIAN,NVXINGDESHISHANGSHUYUJINGUSHI,KESHINANRENDEZHEZHUANGYUJINTIANDELIFUMEIYOUTAIDAQUBIE。ZHIYOUJIANGLIANGZHEFANGZAIYIQIJINXINGDUIBI,CAIGENGNENGMINGBAIZHEIZHONGFENGCI。

    1887NIAN

    CHUSHENGYU1879NIANDEFAGUORENBAOLUO·BOLIE(Paul Poiret)WEIXIANDAISHIZHUANGLAKAIXUMU,ERTAZUIDIANFUDEGONGXIANBIANSHIJIANGFUNVCONGJINSHENXIONGYIZHONGJIEFANGCHULAI。

    BAOLUO·BOLIEYUMOTE

    MEIYOULEJINSHENXIONGYI,CONGJIEGOULAISHUO,NVRENDERUFANGXUYAOTUOQI,YUSHIBAOLUO·BOLIEHAIFAMINGLEXIONGZHAO。

    NIYIDINGXIANGBUDAO,TAZAIYIBAIDUONIANQIANSHEJIDEXIONGZHAOSHIRUCIKEAI。

    1915NIANZUOPIN

    GUXILA、GULUOMAFUSHIYIJIDONGFANGFUSHIJILETAWUXIANLINGGAN,ZHEIXIESHIQIHEDIQUDEFUSHITEDIANZAIKUOXINGSHANGDOUPIANXIANGKUANSONG,ZHEIFUHEYUEFAKEWANGCANYUGENGDUOSHEHUIHUODONGDENVXINGXUQIU。

    1913NIANZUOPIN

    1912NIANZUOPIN

    YUCITONGSHI,TASUOJIQULINGGANDEDONGFANG,ZHENGJINGLIDABIANGE——1912NIANZHONGHUAMINGUOCHENGLI。ZAINANJINGXUANSHIJIUZHILINSHIDAZONGTONGDESUNZHONGSHANXIANSHENGXIALINGJINZHICHANZU。

    KONGBUDECHANZUZUIZAOCHUXIANYUSONGCHAO,JIXINGSHENMEIYUXINGPI、RANGNVRENZHANGQIDAIZAIJIAZHONGSHAOCHUMENDENGYUANYIN,RANGNVRENDEJIAOCONGXIAOJIUBEIYONGBUTIAOCHANJIN,“SANCUNJINLIAN”DECANRENSHIXIANZAINIANQINGRENWUFAXIANGXIANGDE。

    19SHIJIWANQIDECHANZUFUNV

    QINGCHAOJINGUO,DANBINGMEIYOUTAIQIANGZHI,1883NIANKANGYOUWEICHENGLIBUCHANZUHUI,XUDUOJINBURENSHIDOUZHICHIBUCHANZU,ZHIHOULIANGQICHAO、LIDAZHAODOUDALIXUANCHUANBUCHANZU。ERZHEIZHONGSHANGQIANNIANDELOUXICHEDIBEIJINZHIJIBENSHIJIANGUOYIHOUDESHIQINGLE。

    JIXINGTUYUJING

    SHEYING: Jo Farrell

    ZHONGHUAMINGUODENVXINGZAIJIEFANGXIAOJIAOSHI,OUZHOUDESHISHANGKAISHIYUEFAFENGFU,YOUQIYIWEINVSHEJISHIDECHUXIAN,ZAIYICIJINVXINGZHEZHUANGDAILAIGENGCHEDIDEZIYOU。

    TAJIUSHIcoco Chanel。

    coco ChanelJIANGNANSHIFUZHUANGDEYUANSUYUNYONGYUNVZHUANGZHONG,DAPOSHANGLIUSHEHUIYUPUTONGDAZHONGZHIJIANDEFUSHIJIEXIAN,GENGJIAYUNDONGHUA、XIUXIANYOUBUSHIYOUYADEFUSHIBEITACHUANGZAOCHULAI,TONGSHIDAIDONGLEZHENGGEBALIDECHAOLIU,YINGXIANGSHISHANGSHIDEJINCHENG。

    20NIANDAIDEcoco Chanel

    ZHENGGE20NIANDAISHISHISHANGZHUANBIANFEICHANGDADENIANDAI,OUZHOUDENVRENMENJIBENSHANGBAITUOLELAOJIUDESHISHANG,YONGBAOXINSHIDAI。

    DANGRAN,CHULEcoco ChanelYEYOUXUDUOCAIHUAHENGYIDESHEJISHITUICHULEDALIANGSHIHEXIANDAISHENGHUODEFUZHUANG。

    20NIANDAISHISHANG

    KEXISHIJIEDEFAZHANCONGLAIBUSHIJUNHENGDE,YOURENWEIXINSHIDAIHUANHU,JIUYOURENWEIJIUSHIDAIHECAI。

    1925NIAN,TIANZHUJIAONEIBULESIZONGJIAOQUYANLIQIANZEDUANQUN,TAMENFENNUYUCHAOGUOXIGAIDEQUNZHANG。ERMEIGUODEYOUTAZHOUGENGKEXIAO,HAIZAIJIXIWANGYULIFAJINZHINVRENCHUANGAOGUOJIAOHUAI3YINGCUNDEQUNZI。

    NVRENDUIZIYOUCHUANYIDEKEWANGJIUXIANGSHIJUEDIDESHUI,XIONGYONGWUBI,SHENMEDOUDANGBUZHU。

    TONGYANGZAI1925NIAN,WANGQIUYUNDONGYUANEileen Vivian BennettDAWENBUERDENGSHICHUANLEXIGAIYISHANGDEDUANQUN,BINGQIEMEIYOUCHUANZHANGWA,RANGSHUANGTUIWANQUANLUCHULAI,HENKUAIDEDAOQITANVYUNDONGYUANDEXIAOFANG。

    PAISHEYU1934NIAN

    ZAIMINIQUNZHENZHENGCHENGWEILIUXINGZHIQIAN,NVRENMENJINGLILE20NIANDAIXIANGNANHAIZIYIYANGDEFENGCHAO,30NIANDAIGENGJIANVXINGHUADEYOUYA。

    30NIANDAIDEOUZHOUHEDONGFANGDOUBUTAIPING。XITELERENWEIFUNVSHUYUCHUFANG,BUYINGGAIXIYAN、BUYINGGAIHUAZHUANG,ZHEIJIUSHINANQUANSHEHUIDUINVRENDEZHUANZHI,NAGENIANDAIDOUYIYANG。HUOZAIDANGJINSHEHUIWANGXIANGFUPIZHEIZHONGSIXIANGDEZHINANAIGAIHAOHAOSIKAOYIXIA,WEISHENMEGENXITELEYIYANG?

    30NIANDAIZUIZHIMINGDESHEJISHISHIElsa Schiaparelli,TASHIYIWEIDUOMEYOUXIANGXIANGLIDESHEJISHIYA,JIANGCHAOXIANSHIZHUYIDAIRUSHISHANGSHEJIZHONG,JILENVXINGFUSHIGENGDUODEQUWEIHEYISHU。

    1937NIAN

    SHIZHIJINRI,WULUNRENMENRUHEJIEJIANTACENGJINGDESHEJI,DOUWUFADAILAINEIZHONGZHENHAN。

    40NIANDAISHISHANGJIEZUIZHONGYAOLIANGWEISHEJISHIYINGGAISHIDiorHEBalenciage。DANG1947NIANDiorTUICHUSHOUGEBEICHENGWEIXINFENGMAOXILIESHI,YOUYADEAXINGQUNZHENGFULEBALI。YUCITONGSHI,BalenciagaZHENGMIANLINJIONGJING,DANTADECAIHUAHEPENGYOUDEZIZHURANGTAZHONGXINLIYUSHISHANGJIE,YEJILENVRENMENGENGWEIDUTEDEXUANZE——BIEZHIDEKUOXINGGAN。

    1947NIANDiorDECHENQUNHEXIONGYI

    Balenciaga,1951NIAN

    50NIANDAIYANXULE40NIANDAIDEGUDIAN、YOUYA,TONGSHI,ZHEIGENIANDAIBEIRENWEISHISHIZHUANGSHEJIHUANGJINSHIDAIDEZHONGJIE,YINWEIDUOYUANHUADE60NIANDAIYAODAOLAILE。

    QISHIJINTIANHUIGU,BUHUIRENWEI60NIANDAIZHONGJIEGUDIANYOUDUOMEDEBUHAO,SHIDAIWANGQIANZOU,ZONGSHIHUIYOUXINFENGMAOCHUXIAN。

    ERDUIYUNVXINGLAISHUO,60NIANDAISHIFEICHANGYOUMEILIHEGEXINGDENIANDAI,WUZHIDEFUYUJIUHUIKEWANGJINGSHENSHANGDEDAOGENGDUO,“FANQUANWEI”SICHAOFENGMI。YEJIUSHIZHEIGESHIQI,Mary QuantSHEJIDE“MINIQUN”CHENGWEINIANQINGRENDECHAOLIU。

    Mary Quant ,1967NIAN

    DANGRAN,BUSHIZHIYOUTASHEJICHAODUANQUN,XUDUODANGSHIYOUDAIBIAOXINGDESHEJISHIDOUSHEJICHAODUANQUN,BIRUZOUTAIKONGFENGGEDEPierre Cardin。

    1968NIAN

    HENDUORENJIANGCHAODUANQUNDELIUXINGGUIGONGYUMary Quant,DANTAZESHUOSHIJIETOUSHAONVZIJIDEXUANZE。

    SHIYA,SHEJISHIHENVXINGYIQI,ZHENGQUDAOLECHUANCHAODUANQUNDEQUANLI。

    FENGGEJIQIDUOYUANHUADE60NIANDAI,CHUXIANLEGEZHONGFENGCHAO,XIPI、PENGKEDENGDENG。

    60NIANDAIXIPISHI

    ZHEISHINIANLIHAIYOUYIGEFEICHANGZHIDEMINGJIDEJINGDIAN——Yves Saint LaurentDEXIYANZHUANG。1967NIANDEZHEICHANGXIUHONGDONGYISHI,NVRENCHUANSHANGNANSHIXIZHUANG,DANGAILIANGDEJIEGOURANGNVRENXIANTIAOXIUZHANG,SUIJIXIYANZHUANGCHENGWEIBAOKUAN,CHENGWEINVXINGBIAOBANGZIWODEZUIJIAZHEZHUANGZHIYI。

    1967NIAN

    80NIANDAIDENVXINGZHEZHUANGFEICHANGYOUQUANWEIGAN,SHEJISHIJITAMENJIASHANGLEDIANJIAN,NANXINGHUADEXIFU,SHIERYANSU,SHIERSATUO。HAOWUYIWEN,ZAIFUSHUNIANDAI,NVXINGDIWEIWENBUTIGAO,TAMENYOUGENGDUOJIHUIYUNANXINGJINGZHENGSHEHUIGANGWEI,XUDUOSHEJISHIMENJILEZUGOUDEZUNZHONG。

    1985NIANDEMEIBAN《Vogue》, FUZHUANG Betty Hanson

    1987NIANDEYINGGUOBAN《Vogue》

    SHISHISHANG,RIBENDEJIWEIZAIBALIZHANLUTOUJIAODESHEJISHIDOUJIYUNVXINGGENGDUOBUYIYANGDELILIANGGAN,TABULAIZIYUCHUANTONGDEYOUYA,SHISHANGDEKENENGXINGBEICHEDIDIANFU。

    1980NIAN,Issey Miyake

    Issey MiyakeSHIZUIZAOYIPIQUBALIFAZHANDERIBENSHEJISHI,ZAI70NIANDAIBIANYICHENGMING,WOMENDUITANEIXIEZHEZHOUFUZHUANGFEICHANGSHUXI,TAHAIZAI1980NIANTUICHUGUOHONGSEDESUJIAOXIONGYI,TABINGMEIYOUJINGUNVXINGSHENTI,JINJINSHITIEHE,BINGCHENGXIANCHUBIZHENDEQUXIAN。

    DAOZHEILI,WOMENBUNANFAXIANTONGLEIBIESHEJIFASHENGLEDAOZHI,YIBAINIANQIANDEJINSHENXIONGYIDAIBIAONANQUANSHEHUIDUINVXINGDEKONGZHI,ERCIKEDEJINSHENXIONGYIYIJINGCHENGWEINVXINGLILIANGDEBIAOXIAN。

    ZHENGRUHOULAI,Jean Paul GaultierWEIMAIDANGNASHEJIDEZHUIXINGXIONGYIYIYANG,CHENGWEINVQUANDEXIANGZHENG。

    Jean Paul GaultierYUMAIDANGNA

    LINGWAILIANGWEIYU80NIANDAIZAIBALIZOUHONGDESHEJISHICHUANJIUBAOLINGYUSHANBENYAOSI,ZEJIANGNVXINGDELILIANGCHEDICONGGUDIANMEIZHONGTUOLIKAILAI,ZHUIQIUYIZHONGGENGJUYOUPOHUAIXINGDE、GUANNIANXINGDESHEJI。

    Comme des Garcons,1980NIAN

    CONG“SHANCHUANPAI”KAISHI,DANGDAISHISHANGSHEJIKEYISHUOSHIJINRULEXINJINIAN,HOULAIXUDUOXIANGYUSHENGMINGDESHEJISHIYEJIBENSHUYUZHEIGEFANCHOU。

    JINSHINIANNVXINGCHUANYIWENTIZHENSHIWUBIDUOYUANHUA,ZIYOUDAOWOMENYIJINGWUXUYAOZAITAOLUNSHENMEKEYICHUANSHENMEBUKEYICHUAN,ZHIXUYAOZHIDAOSHENMESHIDETIYIJISHENMEGENGHAOKAN、GENGTEBIE。

    ZHIDAOYIXIEDAOTUIDEYANLUNYUELAIYUEDUODECHUXIAN。

    WOJINJINCONG1850NIANKAISHIJINXINGJIQIJIANYUEDESHUOMING,ZAINEIZHIQIAN,NVXINGCHUANYISHIYEYIZHIBUSONGCHI,ZHEIMEDUONIAN、ZHEIMEDUORENDENULI,WEINVXINGZHENGQULAILECHUANYIZIYOUDEQUANLI。

    WOMENKEYIXUANZEXINGGANRELA,KEYIYUNDONGHUOPO,KEYIYOUYAROUMEI,KEYIZHONGXINGSHUAIQI,KEYIGUAIQIAOKEAI,ZHIYAODETI,ZHEISHINVXINGTONGSHIYESHINANXINGDEZIYOU。

    WULUNMEICHOU,WULUNFENGGE,DOUBUSHIBEIERENTUODIAOYIFUDEJIEKOU。

    ERENZIRANYAOSHOUDAOFALVHEDAODEDEQIANZE。DANSHI,FALVWAIDECHOULOU,GENGDUOZAIYUBUFENRENDUIMOUXIEJIAZHIGUANDEMAMU,CHUANYI、HUAZHUANGYOUKAISHIJINJINZUOWEIXIYINYIXINGDEFABAO,HAIYOURENTANGERHUANGZHIDEJIAONVRENNAXIEYIFUGENGSHIHEQUYUENANXING,ERWANQUANWANGJILECHUANYIGENGKEYIBIAODAZIJI。NVXINGDEZIWOYISHIYOUYICIBEIYAZHIZAINANQUANZHIXIA。

    KEPA,KEHEN,YOUKEAI。


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